But before striking off into all this wild country ill-prepared, take the time to learn about the places you want to visit, then prepare well for the adventure. To assist you with the latter, a few excerpts from our guides are provided below. The information may be of special interest to novice hikers and newcomers to the Northwest.
Climate & Season
Weather and climate in Northwest Washington are much influenced by marine and continental air masses, as well as the dramatic rise of the Olympic and Cascades mountain ranges. While the Northwest is well-known for an abundance of cloudy and rainy weather, it isn't always like that. In summer, a warm Pacific High replaces the storm-ridden Aleutian Low and can change things dramatically, as rainfall amounts plummet and the sun may shine for weeks on end.
While summers can be comfortably warm and dry, sometimes even hot, the rest of the year ranges from plenty-good-enough-to-hike in to downright miserable. In winter, weather conditions vary greatly, though it is often mild enough for enjoyable hiking in the lowlands and the islands.
In the rainy season (mid-October through April) the Olympic Mountains strip so much moisture from marine air blowing in from the Pacific that more than 100 inches of rain falls in an average year in the rainforest west of Mount Olympus, the high point of the range. More than 15 feet of precipitation has been recorded in a single year. Yet only a few miles to the east, rainfall amounts drop considerably, from 35 to 45 inches at Bellingham or Seattle, to almost semi-arid levels in some places in the San Juan Islands.
The explanation is simple: moist air moving in from the sea cools and condenses as it rises over the Olympics, producing large amounts of rain, then warms and expands as it descends down the eastern slopes and across the straits. This creates a "rainshadow" effect over the islands and parts of the mainland. As the air rises again to cross the North Cascades, the rains increase once more all along the foothills and to the crest of the range. The pattern repeats itself throughout the year, but especially from November through March when 70 percent of annual precipitation falls, much of it in the form of snow in the higher elevations.
The greatest single-season snowfall on record occurred at Mount Baker in the winter of 1998-99 when an incredible 97 feet of snow fell. In some places the snowpack was more than 30 feet deep! Needless to say, the hiking season in the North Cascades the following summer got off to a very late start.
More typically, once can expect mostly snow-free trails by mid-summer, with south-facing slopes almost always melting out several weeks ahead of north-facing slopes. The high meadows are often snowed in through June. By mid-July, most trails are snow-free and generally remain so into October. There are always exceptions, especially for areas above 5,000 feet. It is important to note that both hot, dry conditions as well as blustery rain and snow are possible in the mountains any day of the year. (For the latest mountain trail conditions and related information, check out the Washington Trails Association website at www.wta.org.)
Needless to say, the weather can be as fast-changing as it is unpredictable, so good raingear and warm clothing layers are essential. Sequential days of cold rain or gusty winds can be expected anywhere, anytime, with or without warning. Thunder storms occasionally occur, so avoid ridge tops, taller trees, and open water if you think lightning may strike in the vicinity.
For the latest weather predictions, check the local forecast. Some news-radio stations provide fairly current reports, but some of the best weather information is broadcast via 24-hour VHF marine weather radio. In the San Juans, we have the additional advantage of accessing weather reports from both U.S. and Canadian agencies, easily tuned in with the press of a button. You can also find the latest conditions and forecasts on the Web at http://weather.noaa.gov/pd/waframes.html.
Beach wanderers need to be aware of rising tides, especially in winter months, during stormy conditions, or when higher tides are predicted. You can pick up an inexpensive copy of local tide tables at many bookstores and outdoor shops. Be sure to time your beach walk, especially along narrow beaches and below steep bluffs, so you don't get stranded by a rising tide!
For the small-craft boaters among us who wish to explore some of the more out-of-the-way places in Washington's inland sea, a basic understanding of—and fundamental respect for—tides and currents is critical. (See Special Concerns for the San Juan Islands and Tides & Currents for more information.)
Hypothermia
In the mountains especially, hypothermia can be major concern, even for day hikes. The key is to stay warm and dry, regardless of the weather, by layering clothes (avoid cotton), bringing a few extras, if necessary, and by carrying suitable raingear. Hikes in the lowlands and the islands tend be less committing than those in a sprawling national park or wilderness area; which generally means easier access to a warm space and a cup of hot tea when the weather deteriorates. On the other hand, a trip to a more remote area could really test your mettle if you somehow ended up with wet clothes and no spares on a chilly day. Hypothermia (i.e., exposure) has claimed the lives of more than a few unprepared victims. Use good common sense. If you're dressed for the weather, the mountains will be that much more enjoyable, while in the lowlands, hiking season can last all year.
Preparation
A rewarding trip is usually one with good preparation: proper dress and footwear, adequate food and water, and a few other basic items in the rucksack. Tell someone where you're going and know your limits under the conditions around you. Sharpen your senses before and during your walk. Go at a comfortable pace and make it an enjoyable outing for yourself and your mates. Travel in a small group—three to six is ideal. Anticipate problems that might arise and prepare for them. Is the weather unstable? When does it get dark? When does the tide come in?
Consult libraries, sporting goods stores, outdoor clubs and knowledgeable persons if you want to further your skills in wilderness camping and other backcountry adventures. Numerous books are available that provide very specific information on clothing, equipment, navigation, camping, weather, hazards, and other elements which you may or may not be familiar with. Remember that trail and beach conditions change due to any number of factors.
Clothing & Equipment
Volumes have been written on the selection and use of gear for a variety of hiking environments. Outdoor shops are excellent sources of information. Dressing comfortably means wearing loose-fitting layers that can be added or removed as necessary.
Under typical Northwest skies, the best combination in cooler weather often includes a fast-drying synthetic layer against the skin, a light wool shirt or sweater, durable pants (avoid cotton), a heavy, wool sweater or pile jacket, a wind and water-resistant shell (top and bottom), gloves or mittens, and a wool hat or balaclava. Feet need special attention. On longer hikes, good-fitting boots or lightweight trail shoes are mandatory. Thick socks over thin may help absorb friction away from the skin.
Wet clothes, especially denim and other cotton fabrics, can contribute to a rapid and dangerous loss of body heat (whereas wool still insulates even when wet). Add layers, gloves, hat, and parka in colder weather. With some summertime exceptions, nights in the islands are usually cool or cold. A wool hat that pulls down over the ears makes a great thermostat. Put it on before you start shivering and remove it before you sweat or overheat. Effective, fashionable sunglasses with UV protection, and sun cream (SPF 15 or better) are appropriate for bright days, especially on the water.
For short day trips, a waist or fanny pack may be useful to carry food and drink, a nature guide, tide table, camera, windbreaker, etc. A backpack or rucksack may be necessary for longer trips. Any number of other items can be carried as well. In remote areas, care must be taken to avoid getting caught in darkness or bad weather without the essentials in your rucksack. Notice what other experienced hikers carry with them.
Special Concerns for the San Juan Islands
Temperatures in the islands are just as comfortable as those on the mainland from late spring to early fall, and just as shivering, depending on your disposition, the rest of the year. Warm temperatures in the 70s and 80s can be expected during fair weather from May through September, dipping 10 to 20 degrees under gray skies, then becoming somewhat cooler the rest of the year. Even in winter, the weather is mild overall, but freezing conditions can occur on cold, clear days and nights. At 2,407 feet, Mount Constitution on Orcas Island is high enough to collect a few feet of snow in winter, though it generally doesn't last.
For boaters, wind and fog are important weather concerns as well. Wind is funneled around islands, through the straits and passes, up and over hills and ridges, and out through the channels. This means that windspeed and direction can change quickly over short distances, and sometimes from one minute to the next. Stiff winds to twenty knots or more are fairly common in the straits all year long, while fall and winter storms sometimes kick up hurricane-force winds. Even sustained low-velocity winds will churn up substantial waves and swell in open water, while rough conditions are common in more confined areas, especially when the wind is blowing against a tidal current.
Wind poses one of the most serious threats to kayaks and other small boats due to the risk of capsizing. At the same time, the complexity of the islands' geography leaves many areas on the leeward side, protected from the wind, and boaters will seek them out, sometimes religiously. All that said, there are also times when the wind is calm and the sea is almost like glass. On the trail, wind is usually no more of a hindrance in the islands than anywhere else, although the warmth of the sun can fade oh-so-quickly as an afternoon breeze rudely invades your particular stretch of beach.
Prolonged periods of foggy weather are uncommon, but foggy mornings do occur, particularly during late summer. Fog typically dissipates by late morning or early afternoon. Of course, any time visibility is obscured, mariners should take precautions. Thousands of rocks, reefs, and shoals present a threat to the lost and ill-prepared.
Tides & Currents in the Islands
For beach wanderers and the small-craft boaters among us who wish to explore some of the out-of-the-way places noted in this guide, a basic understanding of—and fundamental respect for—tides and currents is critical.
Tides around the San Juan Islands generally rise and fall twice a day, resulting in the two "highs" and two "lows" predicted in a common tide table. Each day, one of the highs is higher than the other and one of the lows is lower. The highest-high and lowest-low tides occur during a new or full moon, at which times the elevation difference between the higher high tide and the lower low tide can exceed ten feet. Obviously, boaters need to be aware of these changes so they don't run aground in places where, just a few hours before, the water was ten feet deeper.
Changing tides also spell a warning to coastal hikers who may wander along a seemingly high and dry beach, only to find themselves clambering through brush and trees two hours later, finding the beach submerged. The highest tides can be downright dangerous below steep, eroding bluffs; and during stormy weather, tides may run higher than called for in the tables. Always commit to a turn-around time (or an escape route) before proceeding on a hike in these conditions. Every visitor to the coastal world should at least invest in a tide table, widely available in outdoor shops, bookstores, boating supply stores, and even supermarkets.
With such an enormous volume of water moving in and moving out (flooding and ebbing) through the straits with each high and low tide, strong currents can form in almost every channel or passage, as well as in shallow areas, where a large amount of water is forced through a constricted space. Currents in excess of two to three knots (1 knot = approximately 1.15 miles per hour) are quite common. At Deception Pass, notorious for its rapid tidal currents, speeds frequently exceed eight knots. A speed boat can often zip along against that much current, but a sailboat or kayak has to struggle to make any headway at all against even a three-knot current (most kayakers try to avoid paddling against more than one knot). Sometimes the flood (rising) tide will produce faster currents than the ebb (falling) tide, and sometimes not. If you look at a map and imagine the water flowing in and out of Juan de Fuca Strait, it's easy to understand why the flood tides generally flow north and east through the islands, while the ebbs tend to flow south and west. There are many exceptions, however, and in some cases the flood and ebb both flow in the same direction! Don't wing it. If safety depends on it, check the maps and tables before your trip.
Because the tides are driven by the constant force of gravity of the sun and moon, they are fairly predictable, thus so are the currents, more or less. Current tables and charts have been developed for boaters which give a clear indication, hour-by-hour, of the general speed and direction of currents. What these broad predictions cannot address are very localized conditions that can be far more serious than indicated on any chart. For example, circling eddies like those in a river will often form along the shores of channels, and tide rips—choppy or breaking waves in fast water—present an additional hazard of special concern to kayakers. Paddling from an eddy into a strong current, or vice-versa, can turn one's world upside down in a hurry. Those rowing a skiff or dinghy are vulnerable to similar threats.
Our trail guides are not boaters' guides. There are plenty of how-to/where-to resources available for beginning boaters, including books, websites, videos, classes, guided trips, and firsthand advice from seasoned San Juan mariners. Check with your local Coast Guard office for information on a boaters' safety course. These resources are there to be taken advantage of.
Cold Water & Hypothermia
Capsizing in our inland sea would not be such a worry if Washington was in the tropics (and everyone wore life jackets). But one toe in the saltwater here should be enough to explain why so few people go swimming in all the pretty coves and bays in summer. Winter to summer water temperatures vary between the mid-40s to low-50s, not the kind of environment humans thrive in. In fact, cold water is so effective at drawing the warmth from a warm body (yours), that HYPOTHERMIA, UNCONSCIOUSNESS, and DROWNING can take place within a half an hour of going overboard. By wearing a life jacket, assuming a fetal position, and not flailing around losing heat and energy unnecessarily, survival times might be extended to an hour, possibly several. If a current is carrying you away from shore, an hour might well be an eternity. Wet suits and dry suits can help tremendously, but are less comfortable in warm weather when they are not often worn, even though the experts may recommend them.
For boaters, carry and use an approved personal flotation device, otherwise known as a PFD or life jacket, as well as any other items pertinent to your mode of travel. If you don't know what they are, you shouldn't be out there.